Salekhard | photoreport
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Salekhard - the only city located on the Arctic Circle . The city more than 400 years, but only in the last 10 years, it underwent the most dramatic changes . The city rebuilt and , gradually , the residents relocated from the old barracks into a modern, comfortable home . It is the most vibrant city , seen me lately. This is not surprising - almost all the cities and towns of the Yamal -Nenets Autonomous District are developing very rapidly . I do not know whether the authorities actually care about the local people , or money from oil and gas so much that they put it in his pocket and is still so much that can completely rebuild the cities and towns .
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[My new travel-video]
It just so happened that the city was getting on the train. Endpoint - Labytnangi . Then - only steam. Now , the very meaning of existence Labytnangi is to communicate with the mainland Salekhard . But as I told the locals - will soon build a railway bridge over the Ob , and I think we will soon see the Yaroslavl train station is no longer the "Moscow Labytnangi " and "Moscow Salekhard ."
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The mountain we see the similarity of the fence, but it's not a fence - it's snow barriers that prevent winter snow cover the railroad . In the winter here is very harsh conditions . I honestly do not expect to see such scenery in these parts . Actually , my dream - to see the real arctic wilderness , but it will have to Tiksi .
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From Labytnangi is a road to the ferries . A few miles away. Around - flooded and swampy terrain Ob . Now we can see the grass, but that's only because the water level is not very high . Right is a railway line - by delivering her cargo at the port, which is located to the left of the ferry .
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From a distance you can see the Salekhard and his " entry symbol " - mammoth. To the left of the character changes every year inscription on the current number of years Salekhard . During my trip was such an inscription - " Salekhard 417 years." In winter, the river freezes completely and clearing the way for her and let trucks . Problems exist only in the thaw - when the ice has not withstand the load, and ferries can not start yet . This situation lasts about 2 weeks , at which time Salekhard cut off from the outside world by terrestrial routes and ferries instead of flying helicopters , the ticket for which costs 800 rubles.
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Local fishermen catch fish : it bites very small fry , but they do not lose heart .
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Ferries themselves - free of charge. But not for the trucks. Before crossing cost $ 100 for any technique , but then there was a company that was to carry all free to grab the market - competitors retreated.
Sami ferry bedecked tires and they are not afraid of collision . During stormy weather impact - are not uncommon .
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That's stormy weather . Immediately after that flight was canceled and the passenger ferries between Salekhard and Labytnangi stopped, but not for long . Weather here can change dramatically in a matter of minutes .
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The river is not very clean. Ob and Irtysh starts with gaining a lot of water until comes to Salekhard. Some have said that this turf, but I do not think that it was him . Notably, by Labytnangi built a small embankment to Putin's visit , but he did not want to go through it , so it remained unnecessary . Often it climb fishermen . Excellent investment.
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The road to the town of about the same length as Labytnangi from the ferry. In Salekhard drive 2 cars. One (right ) walks through the old town. On it goes mainstream minibuses . The second ( left) - a line it passes through such monuments as the 501 building and Stella " Arctic Circle " , on the border of which he (the Arctic Circle ), and passes .
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But the city itself. Udivitelko , but while there, I did not feel like I'm in the north .. I'm sunburned and felt on the southern resort such as Tuapse. The current head of Korovkin himself a Salekhard. And as soon as he became a major Yamal , he started to invest in their homeland. Slowly residents relocated from the old part of the city where they live in two-story barracks , a new home with heated floors . Prices for apartments are comparable with Moscow .
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And in this picture we see one of the northern beaches in the world. The beach on the Arctic Circle ! Indeed, the unusual sight .
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Now go to the village Gornoknyazevsk . From Salekhard to it is a very good road , with beautiful views and a very smooth finish.
One bad - as in the area of roads and that there is practically no smooth road - the only place for motorists to properly dispersed . A lot of KAMAZ vehicles on the road and almost all - loaded with sand, which carry on the construction of the Salekhard - Nadym .
Generally , in Salekhard taxi system is very well developed . In the hotels give you a list of companies that will take you anywhere. But do not forget that the city is more , the travel and all rates are based on the fact that the company will pay any costs ( this also applies to the price of a taxi / hotel) .
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Now moved into the Salekhard museum. All guests Salekhard visit it. There are a lot of exhibits , including the mammoth Lyuba - the only mammoth , found on the Yamal Peninsula , in which the DNA fragments of the plan to clone a mammoth. This mammoth is very well preserved , because very quickly froze .
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And here is the whitefish - the most famous and beloved of all the fish . Now , with its population of small problems, but I think everything will be fine . Such a big fish , length of approximately 1.5 herring is on the market 750 rubles, but you can go to Gornoknyazevsk where fishermen can sell a little cheaper - 500 rubles, but like I said , this year a little trouble with her population in Ob.
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And here is the stele " Arctic Circle " . It divides the city into two parts - below and above the Arctic Circle . Earlier , the people. which were above the Arctic Circle paying an extra odds and northern happened is that some companies could not find workers , and others - did not know from whom to choose , unnecessarily to him was a large queue.
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Many abuse Salekhard for the fact that he lives only for themselves , do not produce anything and so it is. Salekhard - the city of white -collar workers , the people who manage the money of the rich region of Russia.
Joseph Marsh
Albany, New York