Verkhoyansk | photoreport
Verkhoyansk - smallest and coldest city in the world. Oymyakon village is most famous place, that called "Pole of Cold", but it is not true. Officially, "Pole of Cold" located in Verkhoyansk.
Oymyakon village is located near the highway and it possible to deliver tourists with minimum cost and all advertising promote Oymyakon. Business, nothing personal.
Verkhoyansk has a poor budget, but authorities of Oymyakon placed near big money and the build "Pole of Cold" monument in own village. Verkhoyansk has only small table near city monument.
Verkhoyanks has official coldest place status from government.
I see that many famous hollowood actors go to Oymyakon and they are sure, that they in pole of cold, but they have been deceived. They don't know about it.
Verkhoyansk is located in Yakutia, in one of the most remote and sparsely populated areas of the Republic - Verkhoyansky Ulus . What else can I say - almost all of Yakutia is quite difficult to access.
Time difference: +7 hours to Moscow time . In Verhoyansk lives only 1200 inhabitants. I would not say that it is a dull town - no, it is not so . Can you imagine what winter here -60 and +30 in the summer ? Any road surface temperatures in the sacristy of pointless , and the asphalt here carry very expensive , unnecessarily on the plane will not take it , and the car can be reached here only in the winter and then 2-4 days ( from Yakutsk ). So any building here is expensive.
Here is an approximate version . The only way to get to any city or town , especially to those that are located above the Arctic Circle (dotted line) - the airplane , well, or helicopter. Back in Yakutia I will visit these locations as Tiksi Olenyok .
[See my trip to Mauritius]
All roads in Yakutia lead to Yakutsk, if more precise - get out of it . Passenger traffic in the country just crazy .
The main type of air transport - it's a plane An- 24 ( 50 seats ) and the Mi - 8 (25 seats), which is not officially upgraded or repaired .
There are two major airlines - "Yakutia" and "Polar Airlines". They totally captured the entire air transport market and constantly raise prices . Private company and cooperate with each other, even borrowing from each other planes and combining flights.
Now there is a good trend - the market trying to get out Buryat Airlines , whose tickets cost 20,000
For example , a ticket Yakutsk - Tiksi worth 39,000 rubles ( round-trip ) . This is just a 3:00 flight!
Verkhoyans airport was closed, along with the collapse of the Soviet Union and, therefore, to get to him to reach the village Batagai (aka - the regional center of the Verkhoyansk ulus ) . Round-trip ticket costs 32,600 rubles.
Fly on average , 1 hour 50 minutes. A ticket from Moscow to Yakutsk is 2 times smaller, and 6.5 hours to fly ! I will not show my emotions about such pricing - you all know. But , damn it! , People fly , tickets are not enough!
What can I say, if the helicopter flying hour Mi-8 helicopter in northern reaches , and sometimes passes for 250,000 rubles (two hundred fifty thousand) only HOUR!
At such times , people start talking about that in the North earn a lot ... Yes, maybe in the Soviet Union, all it was, but for now here are the same as wages and across the country 15-40 thousand rubles.
When I boarded the plane, I did not expect that all the seats are occupied. In Yakutia , I thought , if we take the average town or village with a population of 1,000 people there and let the plane (50 seats ), then 2 times a day, he will be flying full back and full back and it's at such prices for the tickets.
Planes are old, but are considered among the most reliable . There was a case that the take-off of the plane refused one of the engines , and he calmly turned around and sat down.
Flight attendants spread dinner. Complete simulation of normality
"Lunch" - a handful of chocolates " Duchess " and the sausage roll . It was sooooo funny - I almost wept. Thanks Polar Airlines !
The plane took off and we can see at the bottom of one of the largest rivers in Russia - Lena
Then we fly one of the most remote and unexplored mountain ranges - the Verkhoyansk Range. This is not the highest part of it. A limited number of expeditions crossed these areas, in some places people had never been.
Arrived in Batagai . Runway - dirt road .
Airport - a small blue building .
Behind at the airport building - a monument to polar air
After arrival they fled to the taxi . Taxi - UAZ, which in the local roads - is indispensable in winter and summer. Until Verkhoyansk 2 hours away. Taxi cost - 500 rubles. On weekends, they almost did not go .
In general, the principle of taxi drivers are. There are 2 villages A and B. From A to B taxi leaves every day at 8 am, not later. From B to A cab leaves for 16 hours. And so every day. If you want to go out of schedule - pay for all the seats ... And that may not want to drive .
Here is such a road leads to the Verkhoyansk . This is not very visible, but on the road a lot of bumps and end of the trip very much headache.
When to Verkhoyansk had 30 minutes, we stopped at a tree Shaman. Here you need to leave the right thing. Basically leave cigarettes. If you do not leave - will be in trouble .
Actually , Yakutia is very strong belief in shamanism .
Before fishing - people light a fire and put the food there ( fed fire, etc.) before drinking vodka - first drink is poured into the ground ( feeding ground ) and so on .
That mammoth from a different angle . Chase through the streets of the children on bicycles.
Here is an abandoned and boarded the airport. As in all other cities and towns - all scored in the 90s .
According to the city constantly wandering animals - Verkhoyanskye horses and cows . A lot of ground squirrels . They sleep on the first 9 months of the year, poor fellow .
Here's a garbage left after the celebration Ysyakh - National Day of Yakutia. In those days, people come here from all surrounding towns and even from Yakutsk.
And here is the famous Verkhoyanskye horse. Withstand extreme temperatures in winter . They say that in the winter they are more fattening and still grow a long mane of hair , fluff it in the cold and it looks fantastic .
Now build a new school for 275 places. I'm sure - free places it will not. Children in Yakutia very much. In any village or the village will be completely filled with school or kindergarten. Well done !
Ukrainians are building a school . By December 2013 must pass . Winter is harsh ... The most severe ......
It's funny , but on the street ran into pals . I do not think that there are awake . The faces were swollen from alcohol ... It's a pity .
No, it is not hard and the Restless Gopnik central part of Russia . Most alcoholics who do not have enough to bottle. Politely asked 250! rubles ))) in Moscow on the streets asking for less ....
The main attraction of the city - the Museum "Pole of Cold" . Its director - Kirillina Zakharovna Barbara , born in 1931 - Woman , soul cares for the museum. Got a day off work (he lives nearby) and showed exposure.
Tickets cost 100-300 rubles (for foreigners - 300) , and that 's amazing. Every picture of one object is worth 50 rubles! Panorama - 800 . I can just say - I do not like museums, but this had to go .
Here is the proof that the Pole of Cold - Verkhoyansk . and not some Ojmjakon .
As the locals say - the authorities Oimyakon too long tongue .
Here's Barbara Zakharovna
Here's a great poem , which is written , most likely at this memorial :
I'm not in the center of the city,
And before me monument
Unique : the Pole of Cold !
He half- tin ,
But the original and well-deserved ,
I said , " zhist " a
Is not conceived in the country zastuzhennoy .
And they say verhoyantsy (verhoyansk inhabitants)
I'm in a touching tenderness
That minus sixty
For them - a common occurrence!
Here respected the cold ...
Let the diamonds and gold
Peaceful and proud of Aldan
A proud Verkhoyansk cold !
(Nikolai Glazkov . At the cold pole . 1976)
This green building - hotel. Cost of living - 30 USD per day. Located in the center of Verkhoyansk.
We go to the northern part of the city. There is Meteorological village and the very weather station , which was recorded the lowest temperature . There are still hard at work , meteorologists are working around the clock. Measure , measure ...
This is Yana river. It is very exciting to actually see what the read in school geography books.
And now moved into the southern part of the Verkhoyansk - to the Yana river.
Since the summer of 2013 there was a small flood and outskirts of the city was flooded - the water in the river was very muddy (like tea with milk) and all the fish went deep. And there's a lot of fish !
If you catch on a float - no need to wait - and casting a perch , rudd and dace you already biting , and on all the hooks at once. Pike caught in dams and small lakes.
Verkhoyansk left a good impression. Yes, it bears little resemblance to the city , but I've met people, and young people who are going to live here and start a family , and so , in spite of all the talk - Verkhoyansk not dying !
Yes, he has nowhere to grow , unnecessarily on one side the river , and on the other mountain, but it is not bad and so live !
Forgot to say that here , a rare but aptly tourists come from all over the world. The main tourists - the Germans and the Japanese . Germans very likes to traveling in Russia.